Getting the vinyl, plastic and rubber parts of your dashboard and doors clean is pretty easy, but could take some time depending on the size of your car. We advise using a 100 percent cotton terry cloth towel (no lint) or a micro-fiber towel as a base. Add in some all-purpose interior car cleaner and you'll have a winning combination.
We don't suggest using household cleaners because they could be ineffective and harmful to your car. The plastics and vinyl's in your car give off certain oils and the dirt and grime from everyday use usually require special cleaners.Start on the top of the dash and work your way down the center console. If you have some built up grime in any areas of the center console or cup holder areas, spray some cleaner in there. Let it sit for a few minutes as you clean other areas, then come back and wipe it up. Don't forget to wipe down the door sills, the rear deck and the plastic parts between the front and rear seats on four-door cars.
After you have cleaned these areas, it's time to apply some vinyl protectant. This will help maintain the vinyl by replenishing the oils and provides protection from harmful UV rays when parked outside. Again, we advise using a lint free terry cloth or micro-fiber towel as an applicator; though a small foam sponge will work as well.
Spray the protectant on the towel or sponge outside of the car then apply inside. You don't want to get overspray from the protectant on your seats, windows or electronics. Be careful around your stereo, gauge cluster and any wood trim and whatever you do, don't put any on the steering wheel, because your hands might slip off the next time you grip the wheel.
Pro Detailer's Tip: Ever get into your car and ask yourself, "What is that smell?" You can try fancy odor eliminators, but we recommend trying a home remedy. Take a simple dryer sheet and put one under each of the front seats. Leave them there for a few days and replace if necessary. Sure, your car will smell like your Mom just washed your clothes, but it will also help soak up any bad odors.
Any questions Email Me At promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
Sunday, February 24, 2008
How To Clean The Interior
We couldn't provide steps on how to detail a car without mentioning a few interior golden nuggets. We spend a lot of our time inside our cars. The daily commute, taking the kids to soccer practice and the family dog all put wear and tear on our poor cars interior. Food crumbs, drink stains and smells galore make the interior a chore to clean but we have some good advice that can help.
VacuumingYour car accumulates a lot of dirt, dust, rocks and other fun items (pet hair anyone?). The only way to get rid of it is to suck it up with a good vacuum. We recommend using a Shop-Vac if you have one, but if that isn't available, then a normal vacuum will work.
A slim nozzle attachment can reach the small crevices in between the seats and hard to reach areas of the floors. Take the floor mats out of the car, shake them out and vacuum them, this also allows you to clean under the mats with ease. Don't forget to suck up all the stuff that collects in the folds of your seats and door pockets as well.
Pro Detailers's Tip: Do you have pet hair that just isn't budging, even with a vacuum? No problem. Buy some latex gloves, the kind you'll find at a hardware or drugstore, put them on and then rub your hands over the problem areas. The static electricity created from the latex glove will make the pet hair cling to it like a magnet.
Any Questions Email Me At promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
VacuumingYour car accumulates a lot of dirt, dust, rocks and other fun items (pet hair anyone?). The only way to get rid of it is to suck it up with a good vacuum. We recommend using a Shop-Vac if you have one, but if that isn't available, then a normal vacuum will work.
A slim nozzle attachment can reach the small crevices in between the seats and hard to reach areas of the floors. Take the floor mats out of the car, shake them out and vacuum them, this also allows you to clean under the mats with ease. Don't forget to suck up all the stuff that collects in the folds of your seats and door pockets as well.
Pro Detailers's Tip: Do you have pet hair that just isn't budging, even with a vacuum? No problem. Buy some latex gloves, the kind you'll find at a hardware or drugstore, put them on and then rub your hands over the problem areas. The static electricity created from the latex glove will make the pet hair cling to it like a magnet.
Any Questions Email Me At promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
How To Clean The Interior Windows
The challenge here is obtaining a streak-free window, but first you have to understand what contributes to streaks.
The vinyl and plastics in your car give off fumes and oils which, combined with the use of your air conditioning and ventilation system, produce a film that accumulates on the inside of your windows.
Once this film is on the windows, streaks can be created by either using household cleaners that aren't formulated to cut through the grime properly or by using the correct window cleaner but in the improper way (i.e. not fully drying the window after applying the cleaner itself).
We suggest using a specific car window cleaner and a good quality micro-fiber towel. Spray the cleaner on the window and dry with the micro-fiber towel. Be sure to fold the towel over every other pass to always keep a dry side wiping the window.
This way you are actually drying off the cleaner and not just pushing it around. Don't forget to use the same towel to clean off your rear view and vanity mirrors. If you happen to have any spots on the outside of the windows, follow the same steps there too.
Pro Detailer's Tip: For a guaranteed streak-free window follow these steps: Take two micro-fiber towels, get one damp with cool water, keep the other fully dry. Wipe the inside of the window down with the damp towel and then quickly dry it with the dry one. Keep drying the window until it becomes 'smooth'. You'll know it is fully dry when the towel glides over it. This process takes a bit more elbow-grease but will not leave any streaks.
Any Questions Email Me At promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
The vinyl and plastics in your car give off fumes and oils which, combined with the use of your air conditioning and ventilation system, produce a film that accumulates on the inside of your windows.
Once this film is on the windows, streaks can be created by either using household cleaners that aren't formulated to cut through the grime properly or by using the correct window cleaner but in the improper way (i.e. not fully drying the window after applying the cleaner itself).
We suggest using a specific car window cleaner and a good quality micro-fiber towel. Spray the cleaner on the window and dry with the micro-fiber towel. Be sure to fold the towel over every other pass to always keep a dry side wiping the window.
This way you are actually drying off the cleaner and not just pushing it around. Don't forget to use the same towel to clean off your rear view and vanity mirrors. If you happen to have any spots on the outside of the windows, follow the same steps there too.
Pro Detailer's Tip: For a guaranteed streak-free window follow these steps: Take two micro-fiber towels, get one damp with cool water, keep the other fully dry. Wipe the inside of the window down with the damp towel and then quickly dry it with the dry one. Keep drying the window until it becomes 'smooth'. You'll know it is fully dry when the towel glides over it. This process takes a bit more elbow-grease but will not leave any streaks.
Any Questions Email Me At promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
How Often Should A Car Be Waxed?
This question can bring many opinions and myths. We will shed some light on the myths and give you our information.
Myth #1: My car has 4 coats of wax applied.
Fact: When ever wax is applied any residue and or previous wax application is stripped off and replaced with the new application.
Myth #2 My car has a clear coat; I do not have to wax clear coat.
Fact: Clear coat is just that; a clear layer of paint over the colored layer of paint. Clear coat being paint itself, must have wax applied to protect it as well.
Myth #3 My car has a treatment form the dealer and or detail center that requires no waxing ever.
Fact: Read the fine print in your warranty at time of purchase, it will clearly state that once a month a conditioner must be applied to maintain the warranty. Take a guess as to what that conditioner is...you guessed it, wax.
The Real Truth: How Often Should You Wax Your Car.
Like skin on our bodies, paint and clear coat must be kept clean and protected. Think of hand and body lotion as wax for your skin. If your car is hand washed once a week and garage kept, depending on your geographic location, you can go as long as 90 days before needing to apply wax. If the vehicle is black and or you reside in an extreme environment, it should be waxed every 45 days.
Any Questions E mail Mike at promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
Myth #1: My car has 4 coats of wax applied.
Fact: When ever wax is applied any residue and or previous wax application is stripped off and replaced with the new application.
Myth #2 My car has a clear coat; I do not have to wax clear coat.
Fact: Clear coat is just that; a clear layer of paint over the colored layer of paint. Clear coat being paint itself, must have wax applied to protect it as well.
Myth #3 My car has a treatment form the dealer and or detail center that requires no waxing ever.
Fact: Read the fine print in your warranty at time of purchase, it will clearly state that once a month a conditioner must be applied to maintain the warranty. Take a guess as to what that conditioner is...you guessed it, wax.
The Real Truth: How Often Should You Wax Your Car.
Like skin on our bodies, paint and clear coat must be kept clean and protected. Think of hand and body lotion as wax for your skin. If your car is hand washed once a week and garage kept, depending on your geographic location, you can go as long as 90 days before needing to apply wax. If the vehicle is black and or you reside in an extreme environment, it should be waxed every 45 days.
Any Questions E mail Mike at promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
How to Remove Fallout
Industrial Fallout.
Fallout is far too common
surface. If the fallout is left on the car with an overnight rain or if a considerable amount of dew takes place; the metal particle begins to rust on top of the painted surface. Rust is a chemical reaction between the metal and the moisture. Now the metal particle, if magnified, looks like a jagged kidney stone that will embed itself into the painted surface.
Causes - What to stay away from
Industrial fallout and rail dust can occur just about anywhere. Here are some suggested areas to avoid when parking your pride and joy. Airport parking lots, parking lots adjacent to freeways or railways and lastly shipyards.
How to remove it permanently.
A common misnomer is to treat this as paint over spray and utilize a clay bar to remove the fallout. STOP!!!!! This will only break off the top half of the rust particle and leave the metal still embedded in the paint surface. Upon it getting wet again, the fallout will return and you'll have an unhappy customer.
Industrial fallout must be removed with an acid wash to the painted surfaces. Aggghhh sounds scary! Not really, in fact this process takes less than 15 minutes and will not harm any surface of the vehicle. After the acid wash the vehicle must be neutralized with an alkaloid wash. That's it, no excessive rubbing or polishing is required.
Any Questions Contact Mike at Promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
Fallout is far too common
surface. If the fallout is left on the car with an overnight rain or if a considerable amount of dew takes place; the metal particle begins to rust on top of the painted surface. Rust is a chemical reaction between the metal and the moisture. Now the metal particle, if magnified, looks like a jagged kidney stone that will embed itself into the painted surface.
Causes - What to stay away from
Industrial fallout and rail dust can occur just about anywhere. Here are some suggested areas to avoid when parking your pride and joy. Airport parking lots, parking lots adjacent to freeways or railways and lastly shipyards.
How to remove it permanently.
A common misnomer is to treat this as paint over spray and utilize a clay bar to remove the fallout. STOP!!!!! This will only break off the top half of the rust particle and leave the metal still embedded in the paint surface. Upon it getting wet again, the fallout will return and you'll have an unhappy customer.
Industrial fallout must be removed with an acid wash to the painted surfaces. Aggghhh sounds scary! Not really, in fact this process takes less than 15 minutes and will not harm any surface of the vehicle. After the acid wash the vehicle must be neutralized with an alkaloid wash. That's it, no excessive rubbing or polishing is required.
Any Questions Contact Mike at Promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
Hard Water Spot Removal
It happens to everyone. You come out to you car in the morning to find the sprinklers have peppered the car with water. Water spots are every where! Most of the time we simply drive off and the water spots are forgotten.
It is when the car is left in the sun all day that the damage occurs. The sprinkler water contains high amounts of calcium, magnesium and other minerals that when left to dry in the sun it leaves mineral deposits we call Hard Water Spots.
In most cases, a good hand wash will remove the calcium deposits left on the surface. When this does not work, it is time to use a liquid acid cleaner. You are thinking to yourself as read, "an acid cleaner, on my paint - are you nuts?"
No, we are not nuts but yes, this simple procedure will remove the mineral deposits easily and effectively with very little effort. Some opinions are that it is necessary for the hard water spots to be polished out. While this may work, it is not necessary. It will simply cost more than what is required to remove them in the proper fashion. In fact, you can do this on your own in one Saturday morning.
A simple liquid acid wash, followed with a good hand wax is all that is needed to remove to spots. We recommend waxing the paint after this procedure - the acid will remove any organic or synthetic wax that was on the car prior to the acid wash.
Step by Step Instructions.
It is when the car is left in the sun all day that the damage occurs. The sprinkler water contains high amounts of calcium, magnesium and other minerals that when left to dry in the sun it leaves mineral deposits we call Hard Water Spots.
In most cases, a good hand wash will remove the calcium deposits left on the surface. When this does not work, it is time to use a liquid acid cleaner. You are thinking to yourself as read, "an acid cleaner, on my paint - are you nuts?"
No, we are not nuts but yes, this simple procedure will remove the mineral deposits easily and effectively with very little effort. Some opinions are that it is necessary for the hard water spots to be polished out. While this may work, it is not necessary. It will simply cost more than what is required to remove them in the proper fashion. In fact, you can do this on your own in one Saturday morning.
A simple liquid acid wash, followed with a good hand wax is all that is needed to remove to spots. We recommend waxing the paint after this procedure - the acid will remove any organic or synthetic wax that was on the car prior to the acid wash.
Step by Step Instructions.
Items Needed
- Wash Mitt
- Car Wash Soap
- Chamois
- Clean Hand Towel
- Splash - Liquid Acid Cleaner
- Dish Wash Gloves
1. To begin, wash the vehicle.
2. Rinse the vehicle of all the soap and dry as normal
3. Put on the dish wash gloves and fold the small hand towel into fourths
4. Spray a good amount of Splash onto the towel you just folded and wipe on to all painted and glass surfaces that have the water spots. DO NOT WIPE THIS PRODUCT on to moldings or other plastic parts - only the paint or glass.
5. Rinse vehicle
6. Apply coat of hand wax
Any Questions E mail Mike at promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
How To Clay a car
One of the key steps in a professional detail is the surface prep of the paint.
After the car has been prep-washed the next step is to use a surface preparation bar, also known as a "clay bar" to prep the paint for polishing and waxing. This process removes paint overspray and other contaminants that find their way onto vehicle's surfaces.
The clay process is the newest way to remove paint overspray that has landed on the vehicle and is available in different grades for light contaminants up to tough stubborn paint overspray.
Mike's Note: Clay bars will not remove industrial fall out also called, IFO. This type of contaminant requires the use of an acid wash and should be handled by a professional.
After the car has been prep-washed the next step is to use a surface preparation bar, also known as a "clay bar" to prep the paint for polishing and waxing. This process removes paint overspray and other contaminants that find their way onto vehicle's surfaces.
The clay process is the newest way to remove paint overspray that has landed on the vehicle and is available in different grades for light contaminants up to tough stubborn paint overspray.
Mike's Note: Clay bars will not remove industrial fall out also called, IFO. This type of contaminant requires the use of an acid wash and should be handled by a professional.
Items needed to complete this process.
- Surface Prep Clay Bar
- Surface Lube Spray
When the car has been washed and is dry, position the car in the garage or a shaded area. Never attempt this step in the direct sunlight. If the surface temperature is hot to the touch, allow for the vehicle to cool before continuing.
Start with the hood and spray an ample amount of the surface lube on a 24 inch by 24 inch section of the hood.
Rub the clay directly on the paint surface and be sure not to allow the lubricant to dry. The lubricant allows the clay bar to glide on top of the paint surface easily.
Mike's Note: Always clay the vehicle in one direction do not swirl the clay in a circular fashion - this will result in cob web scratches that will show when the sun is shining on the car.
You may wipe any excessive lubricant up with a clean towel. The lubricant is a water based product and will not harm any surface of the vehicle.
You will notice if you turn over the clay, you will see all the impurities the clay has collected from the paint surface that previously were felt when you ran your hand over the surface.
Continue around the vehicle in a clock wise fashion until all panels have been clayed. It is a good idea to at least wax the surface after this process has been completed.
The clay can be used over and over and is packaged in a resuable plastic storage box, if your clay did not come in a box it is a good idea to keep it in a zip lock baggy.
That's it - you will be amazed at how quickly and effectively contaminants and overspray are removed with surface prep clay.
Any Questions Email me at promobileautodetail@yahoo.com
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